Low, sagging barbed wire.

1. Not tall enough.
2. Barbed wire.
3. Loose and sagging.
4. Uncapped T-post.

Recipe for disaster.

Why risk it?

Diamond mesh fence.

When installed and maintained properly, this diamond mesh no-climb fence may be one of the safest horse fences, especially for foals and other youngsters.

Many of them advertise that horses simply "bounce off" if they run into it. I have not seen this fence in use locally for first-hand information, but I am inclined to believe that it runs toward the expensive side as it seems to be used less often than it should.

(Like welded wire 2 x 4 inch mesh fence, there should be a sturdy board or at least an electric wire at the top to prevent the horses from "riding" the fence down.)

Loose barbed wire and young horses.

This is one of a series of several photos, with this young foal mouthing and "playing" with the loose barbed wire fence.

It makes me cringe. Every time.

Any horse—but especially the young or nervous—can crash into barbed wire and severely lacerate their skin, ripping flesh to the bone.

Permanent scarring and disabilities are common, and injuries may result in the horse being humanely destroyed.

Chain link fence.

This type of fence, chain link or cyclone fence, CAN be a safe and suitable horse fence, but it would require the use of both top and bottom supports that are sturdy enough to withstand 1,200 pounds of abuse.

A simple tension wire will not do, as you can see by the damage to the top of the fence in this photo.

(Sunblock might not be a bad idea, either.)

Low wood rail fence.

As much as I prefer wood fences to most other types, this fence is not tall enough for the size of the horses kept inside.

The top plank should be higher than the point where the horses' neck and chest meet, at minimum.

I like to see them higher, so that the horse has to LIFT its head to put it over the top rail. That way, if they push against it, they cannot throw their full weight into it like they could if it were chest-level.

Barbed wire and nylon halters.

Halter doesn't fit, and could easily get hung up on a barb. Right at eye level, too.

Nylon is not recommended for a turnout halter because it tends not to break in an emergency, but this one looks old enough that it might break if he stopped walking and you didn't.

Barbed wire: not intended for pets.

The grass is definitely greener on the other side of the fence.

If this mini spooked and threw her head up, she could become ensnared in the wire and horribly maimed. Not worth the risk.

Fraying nylon halters can also easily get caught on the barbs.

Uncapped T-posts.

Impalement is never pretty.

This horse was lucky ... he'll live, and probably make a decent recovery.

Horses impaled through the chest when panicked and attempting to jump ... not so lucky.

T-post caps were made for the purpose of protecting your horse from impalement. Use them. Better yet, are T-post sleeves.

Better than both ... wooden posts. More expensive to install, and worth it.

Wood plank fence.

This looks like a very sturdy wood fence, suitably tall for the horse kept inside.

The bottom plank is close enough to the ground to prevent pushing under, yet not too close so that a hoof is unlikely to get caught under.

It would be somewhat safer to mount the boards on the inside of the posts, so that the posts themselves do not become a hazard, and so that if horses are pushing on the planks, they are less likely to push the planks out of the posts if the nails are not secured well enough.

Whatever fence can be cobbled together.

I can't even determine exactly what kind(s) of fences are being used here.

I see sharp broken wire protruding, and what is possibly an electric tape that is loose and most certainly not properly electrified.

Plus, non-breaking nylon halters should not be left on for turn-out.

(They do sell nylon halters with a leather break-away crown, for those of you that can't catch your loose horse otherwise.)